El Nido Town: Has the Philippines' Most Famous Island Town Changed?

It's amazing how much a destination evolves over time. The first time I have been to El Nido was memorable. Confined to Miniloc Island, I had an unexpected treat to the natural beauty of El Nido just like what we used to picture in most postcards from before. Back then, our tours to the Small and Big Lagoons were not so crowded. Kayaking the islands was one of the greatest experiences I've had, especially around Entalula Island. I never wanted Palawan to be known. And yes, I had that, I love the Philippines moment as a result. Just as most visitors, they wanted it mostly to themselves. The elusiveness and remoteness of the islands were just enchanting. You can read about these adventures here and here.

So, after that trip, I was hooked, and despite experiencing much of what other Asian destinations have to offer, I eventually flew back to El Nido to say, hey, I am still Filipino, at the other exclusive resorts, namely, Lagen and Pangulasian.

This time, 10 years after, I went back, coming short of a supposed visit in 2017 where I ended up settling in Port Barton instead. Though I've heard so many good things about the recent transformation, I was still weary of how it would look like. 

So, I booked a flight to Puerto Princesa and decided to start my adventure back to El Nido there. Instead of flying directly, I took the other route, hoping I would enjoy much more of my trip.

I landed at the Puerto Princesa Airport, and as chance happens, I missed getting on the last shuttle van to El Nido Town. As a result, I was forced to ring up a car rental company, which I negotiated for a rate of P1,800 per day for a car. Happy already, I drove up for 4 hours to Northern Palawan, passing through San Vicente Beach for an afternoon snack.

My excitement hurled up as I finally drove up into El Nido Town in the early evening. I likened the experience to Krabi with the limestone formations welcoming us in.

Here's the thing: I have NEVER been to El Nido Town before this trip. My trips were always straight to Miniloc, Lagen or Pangulasian, passing through Lio Airport and being shuttled straight to the resorts. And when I ride the speed boats, I always notice the town that is notoriously known by backpackers as paradise. I must say, I now regret not visiting the town prior. 

El Nido Town felt different. There is a certain vibe that is imposing. The island nature of the place is definitely not on par as it was before. It is a small town if you talk about the center per se, and bustling cafes, tour shops and restaurants still abound left and right, much like Boracay, but enclaved in the looming presence of limestone rocks. Visitors are also mostly Westerners. The people of El Nido are reserved, and not as friendly as the Bisayas, but once you get their vibe, it'll be easy to blend in.

As you may already know, one can take several of the boat tours around the islands from here. Package rates are from P1,200 to P2,500 depending on the tour. Most are standardized, so try to find the ones that provide better value. 

For this trip, I didn't take any of these island tours, since I have already done them in the past. My goal for this trip is really to explore the mainland, the other beaches that Northern Palawan has to offer, and try to get a feel of what it is like to live here.

So, yes, the town has changed, and this is validated by most people I talk to as well, from locals to business owners to frequent visitors. Though El Nido is not just the town now, it has become more segmented, which leaves some friction between locals who are coming back and long-standing residents, who kept the town at bay amidst all the travel boom.

I will end this post with breakfast at the wonderful Art Cafe overlooking the main beach, to keep things positive. To me, this is what El Nido should be, breakfast with a view of boats, the sand and its people. 

Nothing gets better than this.